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Service is charming and the menu breaks every rule in the book.

It is massive, with sixteen starters and fourteen main courses.

A simple traditional dish that has effectively been ‘cheffed’ up, but with a bit of intelligent cooking delivers great results.

Whilst in season Paul is a huge fan of Game, to the extent he is frustrated it’s not used enough. They are both versatile yet underused meats and in the hands of an expert chef, can become something really special”. The (almost) tempura crispiness is finely balanced with just a hint of acid through an essential splash of Sarsons vinegar.

Crispy duck salad is a terrific lunch option if it is done properly, as it is here.

There are racks of bottles, yellowing books and plain tables, some with cloths and some without.From the perfectly laid table, to the wines delivered instantly, she is the essence of good service.For main courses we have roast halibut; it is okay, but has a soft texture (suggesting farmed fish) and has an open grain (suggesting frozen fish).In a land-locked pub on a Monday afternoon, is it right to expect anything else? These include a big dish of local Old Spot pork chop served with celeriac fondant, a Calvados baked apple, parsley carrots and a cornichion and shallot sauce.S loves his Black Face mutton from the chef’s own farm; a big hunk of shoulder cooked long and slow, then spiced up with a drizzle of harissa sauce and served with a stack of chargrilled peppers and courgettes and some fluffy cous cous flecked with herbs.If you are interested, ask for details the next time you are passing, but remember the more curious your produce the more you’ll get in return!

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